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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This accolade has left the owners totally surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” states a family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary achievement.